A Personal Pledge of Support for New Caledonia 

Over the years New Caledonia has not had the general appeal of the more famous French Polynesia to the east. That has had less to do with the destination, and more to do with the territory having rich mineral deposits on which to base its economy. Simply put, Tahiti and the Society Islands needs tourism, New Caledonia doesn’t. Its nickel mines have created huge wealth for its owners, and it's fair to say sections of the local society are not so welcoming to outsiders, who may see what's really going on.

 That all said, this destination offers a perfect one week sailing itinerary that takes you around three distinctive landscapes. Leaving Noumea on the well-travelled route, the mainland backdrop to port with its red hills scarred from the mining does little to detract from the beauty of the coconut lined, sandy beaches across the lagoon to starboard. Turn-around point is the Isle of Pines, undoubtedly one of the most spectacular volcanic peaked islands in the Pacific, with some of its best beaches. Returning on a course standing well off from the mainland, you sail through the surreal low-lying atolls of the southern isles, inside the protection of the outer reef. 

 Along the way expect to observe plenty of wildlife: whales, dolphins, turtles and even dugongs can be spotted. You’re likely to catch fish by trolling a lure through the clear waters; and yes there are sharks, which by the way are everywhere, just less spoken of in other places.

 Following the May 2024 riots, promises were made for a referendum followed by elections that would give the indigenous population greater representation. That hasn’t happened, and operators have been forced to make their sad decision. Tourism has been hit hard and maintaining a charter base with only local bookings is simply not viable.

While tourism at its peak only contributed some 10% of New Caledonia’s GDP, it was always a significant employer, and it was never the intention of activists to target tourists. The riots were aimed at symbols of excessive wealth made from the country's natural resources, not the hotels and tourism services. 

 I have sailed New Caledonia several times, with time spent in Noumea, and at no time have I or my chanter guests ever felt uncomfortable. In fact we have made genuine friendships with local people. One memorable occasion was when our girls befriended a local girl of their age. Any language barrier was quickly forgotten, it was just kids having fun on holiday. The contact was maintained and later we would welcome her in to our home, hosting her for a term of New Zealand schooling at the request of her parents. It was a rich and rewarding cultural exchange for everyone.

 New Caledonia is a worthwhile sailing destination and a country that needs a show of support. The travel advisories are still in place, but that’s common to so many places Kiwis and Aussie travel. Our governments are risk-averse on our behalf, naturally.   I certainly would feel as comfortable being there now as I have ever done in the past. Sadly the advancements sought have not been realised, and the tensions of colonisation remain.

 The sailing charter operators right now have four good Bali catamarans waiting in Noumea for you to sail away on a glorious week’s tropical island holiday. They are priced very competitively, and I would like to think we can give the team up there a last minute show of support. If you do not have a sailing holiday booked this winter, then I urge you to give New Caledonia some consideration. I would like to think that the industry closure will be temporary, but sadly such steps have a way of unwinding years of progress.  

 This may be the last chance you ever get to have a boating holiday in this wonderful part of the world.

Photo credits on Unsplash
Nathan Feyssat
Sébastien Jermer
Sawada Kedavra
Quentin Fahrne